In Praise of Women

My life experience as an older woman and a mother helped to open doors at Frakapor refugee camp, where I volunteered in January 2017. The camp, located in northern Greece near the Macedonian border, was home to several hundred people, a large percentage of them Syrian Kurds, and many of them families with children. Because [...]


Another day in camp

The children’s area is like a damp dungeon — I worry that there is going to be a serious mold problem, as it’s impossible to keep dry due to the leaking roof and the hole in the wall to the outside elements. Saufen’s twin boys arrived. We did puzzles on the damp, carpeted floor. The [...]

Finally en route

I am finally en route on a flight to Frankfurt, Germany, the first hop on my trip to Thessaloniki, Greece. We are flying from the afternoon into a bank of darkness, as evening sets quickly. When we land in Germany, we will be nine hours ahead. When we land in Thessaloniki, we will be 10 [...]

On the launch pad

I am writing this two days before my plane takes off  -- hopefully with me on board, and not trapped in a bathroom stall at SeaTac Airport. Northern Greece in midwinter is not a shorts-and-sandals affair. Thessaloniki is 26 degrees Fahrenheit (-3 Celsius) right now, and raining. It's mandatory to bring warm clothing, as we [...]